Q: I use traditional auto body shop methods as well as non-traditional methods such as “paint the scratch, not the car” and “micro-repairs”.
A: Traditional methods: These are the mainstream practices used in auto body shops and I-CAR training manuals. I am I-CAR certified, experienced, and know how to fix it “by the book” and follow standard body shop protocol. This knowledge is absolutely foundational, but these “rules” are not always practical when performing repairs to minor damage. For Example: The “Continuous Film” rule. This is standard auto body shop protocol. Let’s say you have a 4 inch X 4 inch scratched area on the corner of your bumper. The rest of your bumper is in perfect condition. The “Continuous Film” rule says that when fixing this damage you must re-coat the whole bumper in its entirety. And most of the time you will have to remove the bumper from the rest of the car. This “continuous film” rule is how to do it “by the book”. It makes sense when you have larger damage. But in the given example, I believe in breaking this rule in order to abide by a higher rule. I call this higher rule “Save time, money, and your factory finish when practical” I don’t have to repaint your whole bumper again to fix it with excellence. I do a micro-repair. But the catch is: the repair techniques must be performed properly and with the highest quality products available (which is the case with me.) For a step by step guide on how I repair bumper scrapes, see the next question below. Non-traditional methods: I use non-traditional methods and “higher” rules, when I make a judgement call that traditional methods are overkill. One of these higher rules is “save your factory finish when possible”. This rule says that in many cases, it is a higher quality repair to just fix the chip or scratch and leave the remainder of the original factory finish untouched. Less is more. Part of the reasoning is that your factory finish is the best finish your car will ever have. Let’s say your car was in great shape and an auto body shop offered to pay you $1000 if you would allow them to repaint your car. You’d be getting a bad deal because your car just lost value and the new paint job isn’t quite the same as factory. Also, problems can arise when your factory finish gets re-coated. For one thing, these panels can become more prone to blistering, chipping and cracking. Have you ever seen a hood with a ton of chips on it? I can almost guarantee it’s been repainted. And besides, why waste time and money when I know how to trim the fat? I believe it is a public disservice to offer the traditional “paint the whole panel” approach in cases when non-traditional methods are a better option and visa versa. I will not withhold this information from you, and you will reap the benefits.
A: Yes, phone “ballpark” quotes are free. “In person” quotes are free when you travel to me. I also provide onsite appointments where I travel to you. In this case, I come in a fully equipped service van and come with time to get the work done on the spot. If we do the work at that time then the onsite estimate is free. If we don’t do the work at that time, then there is a nominal fee which covers most of my cost. Call me @720-242-9595 or 1-888-SCRATCH (727-2824) so I can better understand your situation.
A: Because of a more efficient process, you can usually save 10% to 50%. On some damage, like major smashes, my dent repairs can cost the same or more than a body shop. But you keep your original finish so it is a superior repair.
A: See the “My Experience” page.
A: When it comes to scratches & dents, trust Kelley Blue Book. They can show you what your car is worth looking great vs having damage. Also, let me carefully inspect your car. Please see my “Selling Your Car” page.
- A: Big time. Unfortunately, by contract you are required to pay for “excessive wear and tear”. Let me fix those scratches and dents before the dealer or lease company sees it. I can save you money since you receive the cost benefit of a more efficient repair method. Don’t pay more for traditional methods needlessly.
A: Yes, if you decide to file a claim, I can assist you through the whole process.
A: It depends. Because our prices are usually lower than conventional auto body shops, most customers prefer to avoid a claim and pay the cost of the repair themselves. With no insurance claim, a carfax report is avoided. And, everyone likes to avoid a rate increase and a blemish on their claim history. However, if you have major damages (ie. hail storm damage, smash damage), then it usually makes sense to file a claim.
A: Yes. All my work is 100% satisfaction guaranteed or you don’t pay. Ask about our limited lifetime warranty.
A: Yes. I am I-CAR certified in paint finish matching. Insurance companies often require I-CAR certification for quality assurance.
A: Average repair time is 45 minutes to 3 hours depending on the severity of the damage.
A: No problem. If there is high wind speed, we may have to reschedule
A: Don’t you need a shop? A shop is not needed for minor repairs. My service van has an attached retractable awning. It’s big enough to cover an entire car. This awning will protect your car from the elements and allow me to deliver a professional, quality repair rain or shine. Guaranteed! If your damage is major, I can assist you in locating an auto body shop in your area.
A: Yes. I come to your home or work place rain or shine.
A: I do high quality, fast repairs to minor damage that does not require a full auto body shop. Exterior: paint scratches, bumper scrapes, door dings, mirror scuffs, hood chips, dents up to basketball size. Interior: leather and vinyl seats, dashboards, and door panels: color re-dye, worn spots, holes, rips, scuffs, cracks, gouges, tears, stains, cigarette burn holes, discoloration, punctures, scratches.